The Church of the Holy Sepulchre – Melting Pot of Christianity

October 18, 2014

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The Church of the Holy Sepulchre: A Glimpse into the Melting Pot of Christianity

No city but Jerusalem can claim to hold as much importance to Jews, Christians and Muslims in almost equal measure. So when you are here, explore all the four quarters of the city to get a feel of the complex culture of this place. What better place to start my foray into the Christian quarter in the northwestern corner of the city than the Church of the Holy Sepulchre that is at its heart!

You get to the church complex from the Souk el Dabbagha. The structure is not impressive, given the fact that it had fallen in and out of Christian hands several times in the history, and had been built and rebuilt in bits and pieces. But even a casual visitor is transported to another world on stepping into the church. You don’t have to be a pilgrim to be awed by the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

Interestingly, the Greek orthodox, the Catholic and the Armenian churches that own the different parts of the The Church of the Holy Sepulchre do not control its entrance.

Main entrance to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem — Gathering of visitors and pilgrims at entrance

They reportedly come to blows ever so frequently over small matters. No wonder Sultan Saladin entrusted the keys to the custody of a Muslim in 1192, and they remain with the Joudeh Al-Goudia family still. The warring Christian factions cannot agree on even the slightest change in the arrangements too. A mute witness to this status quo is the ‘immovable ladder’ on a parapet visible from the courtyard. It has been perching against a window for the last two centuries at least.

The smell of incense and melting wax greets you as you follow several people carrying wooden crosses while winding their way through the church, stopping briefly at different sites of interest. They are obviously undertaking a pilgrimage along the miniature Via Dolorosa, emulating the last walk of Jesus to the place of his death. On the way you pass different Stations of the Cross including the Prison of Jesus, the Chapel of the Nailing to the Cross, and the Chapel of Crucifixion.

The Golgotha, which means ‘the place of skulls’ where Jesus was crucified, lies under the altar of a Greek church, with a silver disc marking the spot. The Stone of Unction has many pilgrims kissing and kneeling by it, with the wall behind it depicting the preparation of Jesus for burial.

Dome of Holy Sepulchre Church — Large Rotunda above the cave where Jesus was Buried

As you know, the story doesn’t end there. Within the complex you come to the large rotunda containing the rock-cut tomb of Jesus, now enclosed in a stone-clad structure called Aedicule. A skylight in the dome lights up this holiest of holy places of the Christians from where Jesus had resurrected. There are a few other chapels to visit, for example, the Chapel of the Angel and then another one deep underground where Helena, the mother of Emperor Constantine discovered Jesus’ cross.

at the Church of the Holy sepulchre - Jerusalem — Believed burial site of Jesus

It is not exactly easy to imagine how all these places of interest came to lie under the same roof. But, when you emerge at the other end, with or without the wooden cross, you get the feeling that you have just walked through a poignant story.

There is so much more to see, learn, hear, feel, smell, understand, and explore within The Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Make sure to stick around for great self walking tours, what it is like upon first entering The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and that ladder mentioned earlier.. could it really have been Jacob’s ladder?

Oh, and make sure to check back soon for the coolest and almost “secret” like way into the The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the rooftops!

Place at Dome on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem — Secret? Rooftop Entrance to The Church of the Holy Sepulchre

Plus! Just how many ways are there to reach The Church of the Holy Sepulchre? Want to know the fastest? The most colorful? Best stops along the way for food and gifts? Check back real soon!

Israel Negev Desert: Set My Inner Adventurer Free

October 17, 2014

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Israel Negev Desert: The Story of How I Set My Inner Adventurer Free

Israel Negev desert is more than just rolling dunes of sand. Look closely between the rocks of the wadis (valleys), and you will find water, maybe even wine. That alone would have made Negev my number one destination, because, in Israel, wine is your all-important beverage – from the blessings read over it under the chupah (wedding canopy) to farewells where we say l’chaim and wish each other well over a shot glass of schnapps. Ask any hot-blooded Israeli man like me and you’ll know, the wines of the Negev vineyards are the best there are!

But the magic of the Israel Negev desert does not stop at its wine route. It is enchanting, not just to those looking for a bit of history, but to those like me – people who travel for the sake of adrenaline – to go seeking the limits of our inner adventurer.

And Israel Negev Desert offers adventure in plenty. I decided to take a jeep ride through the fascinating terrain with a group of European tourists.

Hikers in Negev desert. — Trekking through the Negev

There was the option of an open-top jeep (which I passed, because it would be way too uncomfortable to tour a desert without any shade on my head), an air-conditioned jeep (great, but it’s like your own world, and if I am taking a desert trail, I might as well hear and smell it, right?) and a covered jeep, which I took.

Usually the drivers in these jeeps are passionate about the desert that earns them their bread, and talk incessantly about it. It helps to have a translator with you because while I understood his Hebrew, the rest of the party didn’t. Of course, the terrain more than made up for that – and this is a route for bravehearts because the desert is unforgiving, relentless in its dips and turns, and steep where you wouldn’t expect it to be.

Memorial Cemetery of the founder of Israel, David Ben Gurion and his wife Poline, at edge of Negev

If you are up for it, you can also take a cycling trip through the desert. This kind of desert touring is only for those who can take the stress of biking through the bleak desert landscape, stopping only by the magnificent Ramon crater, or in a Bedouin camp for meals or at Mt. Boker for panoramic views of the desert.

Having pushed my stamina to the limit hiking through the breathtaking Ramon crater – one of the many makhteshim (erosion craters) in the area, I chose what I thought was a more relaxed activity – sand surfing. Dror Bamidbar offers to teach you to navigate the sand on surfboards and sleds and wraps up the session with some desert coffee served on mats.

When you are done for the day, Negev still offers you something for the night. My guide gave me a few choices. I could go picking fruits at a vineyard at night, or go to the Mitzpeh Ramon jazz club set in the makhteshim. There was also the summer concert featuring Persian and electronic music at the Ezuz village.

Summer in the Israel Negev Desert again next year? Of course!

http://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/vie/desert.html