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City of David – 3000 Yarns of Yore

October 22, 2014

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City of David – 3000 Yarns of Yore

To say that I had an ‘adventure’ in what is considered the oldest part of the Holy City of Jerusalem, is not giving my experience justice. But adventure it truly was – especially if you consider my sloshing through thigh-high water in Hezekiah’s Tunnel.

Getting to the City of David is not difficult in itself. The easiest way is leaving through The Dung Gate then make a quick left (watch for buses and taxi drivers, it’s very narrow there on the street) and walk down Derech HaOfel. Walk on the right hand side for about 100 yards and make your right which takes you straight to the entrance. You’ll see plenty of signs to make sure you’re in the right place.

This Streetwise Jerusalem Map that folds into pocket size was probably the best map I ever had in my life. Incredible detail for Jerusalem, roads were so clearly marked. Even after being there for a while, I always kept one in my bag!

I had asked for a guided tour, and as soon as I booked it, I knew I was stepping back some three millennia. But was I prepared for the spectacular day I had ahead? Not quite, because I had thought this would be yet another historical walk where the guide points at strange writings and dates them to the life and times of Jesus Christ.

About two years ago, the administration of The City finished rebuilding the welcome center and it is truly beautiful. Modern outdoor facility yet it blends so well into the natural landscape. There are a few lines depending upon what you’re there to see. All tellers speak English and will be happy to assist.

My guide and I walked down a suspended walkway over ruins of what he said was David’s palace – the same place from where he saw the beautiful Bathsheba. What I saw from here was not a bathing beauty but the spectacular valleys that surround the city.

I stopped for a brief moment, suspended a few feet over the rocks of the ancient palace and could literally feel myself transported back 3000 years in time, before Jerusalem itself was conquered by David and his armies, this was the seat of his power, the capital of the Israelites. I was literally standing on the spot where David stood and Solomon could have been born!

The views were breathtaking and if you have time, I recommend going to see the 3D movie about the city.

The City of David is an excavation that is ongoing outside and below the walled city of Jerusalem, and I was fascinated with how much we still don’t know today of the city.

A part of the city lies below people’s homes. And even though they have been offered 10 times the value of their homes, they refuse to move and therefore, excavation has been halted in several parts of the city (which is actually quite small in itself)

We went past legacies of the First Temple Period, and saw remnants of a wall built by Nehemiah, that my guide said was the biblical “stronghold of Zion” and mentioned the site where a clay seal was discovered with the name of Jeremiah’s scribe Gemariah, son of Shafan.

From there he took me to Hezekiah’s Tunnel, and this was the adventure for me. Built by the eponymous king to protect Jerusalem’s water from an attack by the Assyrians (the main water supply for the city then lay outside the walls of the city, this brilliant decision saved the city and its people), the tunnel forms an intricate system below the city. If you don’t want to get your feet wet, walk through the dry Canaanite water channel (dating back far before the Israelites were there). But if you are up for it, do the sloshing, and you won’t regret it.

The 1760 feet long passageway was dug at both ends and converged at the middle, and if you are going down, water shoes are a must. Also, bring a light bag with you to put in your wallet, phone, shoe’s, too.

Warren's Shaft, the entrance down to Hezekiah’s Tunnel — Warren’s Shaft, the entrance down to Hezekiah’s Tunnel

I had come prepared, so in I went, armed with my flashlight. It is best to wear a headlamp but a flashlight works just as well. But don’t carry a big bag – my backpack kept getting stuck in some of the narrow parts of the tunnel. The water is at most waist-high, and cold!

As you step off the stone rock into the running water, the tunnel is pitch black, you can’t see the water rushing under yourself, you feel the coldness right up to your knee’s or even waist! Make sure to keep your hands either on the wall to the side and in front of you. The journey is exhilarating, even to think they built this tunnel 2500 years ago in pitch black, and the path seems to go on forever. As I moved my flashlight around, I could see small areas off to the side of the tunnel. My guide explained to me this is where the workers slept and ate. There was no time to go back with the approaching Assyrian army.

Suddenly, my guide disappeared in front of me! But don’t worry, with the tunnel being all stone, I heard his echo from around a sharp bend in tunnel; I had literally just turned 90 degrees! Then another turn and we continued straight. My guide explained to me that this was an error. Workers above the tunnel were supposed to hit a nail in the ground which made nose below for the workers to follow in order to dig straight. I guess here someone wasn’t following directions!

At the end of the tunnel, you find yourself at the Pool of Shiloah, where Christ sent the blind man to wash after He put mud over his eyes. But if you are a Jew, this is the pool where you were to take ritual ablutions before going on to Solomon’s Temple, called a Mikvah.

From here we continued on to the newly opened underground walk along an ancient alley that ends at Robinson’s Arch near the Western Wall, which isn’t a bad idea to do if you’re already wet. That is a great story on its own and I’ll be sharing that one real soon!

However, there isn’t a changing room after the Hezekiah Tunnel walk, and wet pants are hardly suited to a day’s tour of the millennia-old city. So feel free to either walk back up to the entrance of the city, or pay a few shekels for a bus to drive you back to the entrance (small warning, the walk is all upward).

Enjoy your walk and be prepared for trip back in time!

Be sure to check out the official site of The City of David

Staying in Tel Aviv – The Insiders Guide

October 19, 2014

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Staying in Tel Aviv – The Insiders Guide

Israel gives you everything you need on a holiday – there’s history in Jerusalem, adventure at the Negev desert, and great food and a heaving nightlife in Tel Aviv. You may not know this, and thankfully, most tourists don’t, but Tel Aviv feels like it’s on a year-long holiday. Our life here is casual – no one owns a business suit, and our cafes are always alive. Spend a few days in the city, and you will know why we Israelis think it is the greatest city on earth.

I remember the first time I came here and was so impressed by what locals call (Mini New York City (and I’m originally from NY)). Tall buildings, tons of places to have fun, gorgeous beaches, and I thought to myself, “Wow! The sites here are amazing given that 100 years ago nothing was here by sand, the smell are an awesome mix of the Mediterranean Sea and sweet cookings from the town, and the sights are filled with beach goers and front side hotels. I LOVE coming into this town from Jerusalem (from the South East) and seeing the building continue to grow from the distance, but… knowing that right on the other side of those beaches, a small piece of heaven exists. Oh man… some great memories I can NOT wait to share with you…

Staying in Tel Aviv is endless – from easy-going beachside hotels to the exotic hotels in the Yemenite Quarter and the fashionable hotels on Rothschild Blvd, Tel Aviv spoils you for choice. But here’s an insider guide to what really stands out.

Hostels

Most backpackers around the world are resigned to staying in hostels that are identical to one another and have no redeeming quality at all. Not so in Tel Aviv. Our Old Jaffa Hostel used to be an old Turkish home that was lovingly restored and turned into an amazing hostel by an Israeli couple. This was incredible. As soon as you walk in the old rustic front door, you smell the sweetest scene of coffee… Yes! Coffee… But Turkish coffee has a soft aroma to it that is not rough on the nostrils, so even though not a fan of coffee… no worries!

The rooms and dorms here have a bespoke old-world feel and the added edge is definitely the roof garden that provides a beautiful view of the Mediterranean Sea.

Hayarkon 48 Is an exciting place to stay, feeling alive with life and fun. Out of all the hostels I’ve been, this easily takes the cake as being the most accommodating and easiest places to feel comfortable! Best known for its excellent showers, spacious kitchen and large community areas where people from different countries can interact without any curfew.

The rooms are well-appointed and there is a pool table thrown in for good measure. Its location is enviable – a short walk away is Allenby Street – Tel Aviv’s party central and there are loads of 24-hour bakeries and kiosks around for those midnight emergencies!

Staying in Tel Aviv – Hotels

The Brown TLV Urban hotel has 4-star amenities but not 4-star rates. I heavily recommend the hotel to those seeking a luxurious stay near the beach and the Great Synagogue, because its amenities are excellent and the location is enviable. The rooftop sundeck and two outdoor bars sell the hotel to most visitors, but if you are looking for a little extra, try their well-stocked library or the hydro-massage showers.

Crown Plaza Tel Aviv City Center hotel is the last word in luxury. Close to the cultural hub of Tel Aviv, the hotel has a pulsating energy that is difficult to compare. With supervised childcare facilities, the hotel lets you get out on your own, and get back from a day’s sightseeing to spa tubs and indoor pools as well as well-stocked minibars. Why do I recommend it? Because it lets you live like a king without emptying your treasury!

Staying in Tel Aviv – B&Bs

Trieste Boutique Concept Suites Neve Tzedek is close to the Carmel Market, Hatachana Compund, Shalom Meir Tower, as well as the Nachum Gutman Museum of Art. So it gives you all the culture/history fix you may want, while also offering perhaps the best jetted bathtubs in all Tel Aviv. The kitchenettes are excellent and the view from the terrace is to die for! Book early, because it sells out fast!

What’s so cool about Staying in Tel Aviv, is although the city can feel big there is something great, local, and fun, around nearly every corner.

Feel free to walk along the beaches and never worry of going hungry with awesome beach side bars and cafe’s, and yes, when you go and see those signs saying “No Dogs” don’t be dismayed when you see dogs running up and down on the sand.

I can’t wait to go back. Oh, and did you know there’s actually a train from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem?

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre – Melting Pot of Christianity

October 18, 2014

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The Church of the Holy Sepulchre: A Glimpse into the Melting Pot of Christianity

No city but Jerusalem can claim to hold as much importance to Jews, Christians and Muslims in almost equal measure. So when you are here, explore all the four quarters of the city to get a feel of the complex culture of this place. What better place to start my foray into the Christian quarter in the northwestern corner of the city than the Church of the Holy Sepulchre that is at its heart!

You get to the church complex from the Souk el Dabbagha. The structure is not impressive, given the fact that it had fallen in and out of Christian hands several times in the history, and had been built and rebuilt in bits and pieces. But even a casual visitor is transported to another world on stepping into the church. You don’t have to be a pilgrim to be awed by the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

Interestingly, the Greek orthodox, the Catholic and the Armenian churches that own the different parts of the The Church of the Holy Sepulchre do not control its entrance.

Main entrance to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem — Gathering of visitors and pilgrims at entrance

They reportedly come to blows ever so frequently over small matters. No wonder Sultan Saladin entrusted the keys to the custody of a Muslim in 1192, and they remain with the Joudeh Al-Goudia family still. The warring Christian factions cannot agree on even the slightest change in the arrangements too. A mute witness to this status quo is the ‘immovable ladder’ on a parapet visible from the courtyard. It has been perching against a window for the last two centuries at least.

The smell of incense and melting wax greets you as you follow several people carrying wooden crosses while winding their way through the church, stopping briefly at different sites of interest. They are obviously undertaking a pilgrimage along the miniature Via Dolorosa, emulating the last walk of Jesus to the place of his death. On the way you pass different Stations of the Cross including the Prison of Jesus, the Chapel of the Nailing to the Cross, and the Chapel of Crucifixion.

The Golgotha, which means ‘the place of skulls’ where Jesus was crucified, lies under the altar of a Greek church, with a silver disc marking the spot. The Stone of Unction has many pilgrims kissing and kneeling by it, with the wall behind it depicting the preparation of Jesus for burial.

Dome of Holy Sepulchre Church — Large Rotunda above the cave where Jesus was Buried

As you know, the story doesn’t end there. Within the complex you come to the large rotunda containing the rock-cut tomb of Jesus, now enclosed in a stone-clad structure called Aedicule. A skylight in the dome lights up this holiest of holy places of the Christians from where Jesus had resurrected. There are a few other chapels to visit, for example, the Chapel of the Angel and then another one deep underground where Helena, the mother of Emperor Constantine discovered Jesus’ cross.

at the Church of the Holy sepulchre - Jerusalem — Believed burial site of Jesus

It is not exactly easy to imagine how all these places of interest came to lie under the same roof. But, when you emerge at the other end, with or without the wooden cross, you get the feeling that you have just walked through a poignant story.

There is so much more to see, learn, hear, feel, smell, understand, and explore within The Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Make sure to stick around for great self walking tours, what it is like upon first entering The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and that ladder mentioned earlier.. could it really have been Jacob’s ladder?

Oh, and make sure to check back soon for the coolest and almost “secret” like way into the The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the rooftops!

Place at Dome on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem — Secret? Rooftop Entrance to The Church of the Holy Sepulchre

Plus! Just how many ways are there to reach The Church of the Holy Sepulchre? Want to know the fastest? The most colorful? Best stops along the way for food and gifts? Check back real soon!

Israel Negev Desert: Set My Inner Adventurer Free

October 17, 2014

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Israel Negev Desert: The Story of How I Set My Inner Adventurer Free

Israel Negev desert is more than just rolling dunes of sand. Look closely between the rocks of the wadis (valleys), and you will find water, maybe even wine. That alone would have made Negev my number one destination, because, in Israel, wine is your all-important beverage – from the blessings read over it under the chupah (wedding canopy) to farewells where we say l’chaim and wish each other well over a shot glass of schnapps. Ask any hot-blooded Israeli man like me and you’ll know, the wines of the Negev vineyards are the best there are!

But the magic of the Israel Negev desert does not stop at its wine route. It is enchanting, not just to those looking for a bit of history, but to those like me – people who travel for the sake of adrenaline – to go seeking the limits of our inner adventurer.

And Israel Negev Desert offers adventure in plenty. I decided to take a jeep ride through the fascinating terrain with a group of European tourists.

Hikers in Negev desert. — Trekking through the Negev

There was the option of an open-top jeep (which I passed, because it would be way too uncomfortable to tour a desert without any shade on my head), an air-conditioned jeep (great, but it’s like your own world, and if I am taking a desert trail, I might as well hear and smell it, right?) and a covered jeep, which I took.

Usually the drivers in these jeeps are passionate about the desert that earns them their bread, and talk incessantly about it. It helps to have a translator with you because while I understood his Hebrew, the rest of the party didn’t. Of course, the terrain more than made up for that – and this is a route for bravehearts because the desert is unforgiving, relentless in its dips and turns, and steep where you wouldn’t expect it to be.

Memorial Cemetery of the founder of Israel, David Ben Gurion and his wife Poline, at edge of Negev

If you are up for it, you can also take a cycling trip through the desert. This kind of desert touring is only for those who can take the stress of biking through the bleak desert landscape, stopping only by the magnificent Ramon crater, or in a Bedouin camp for meals or at Mt. Boker for panoramic views of the desert.

Having pushed my stamina to the limit hiking through the breathtaking Ramon crater – one of the many makhteshim (erosion craters) in the area, I chose what I thought was a more relaxed activity – sand surfing. Dror Bamidbar offers to teach you to navigate the sand on surfboards and sleds and wraps up the session with some desert coffee served on mats.

When you are done for the day, Negev still offers you something for the night. My guide gave me a few choices. I could go picking fruits at a vineyard at night, or go to the Mitzpeh Ramon jazz club set in the makhteshim. There was also the summer concert featuring Persian and electronic music at the Ezuz village.

Summer in the Israel Negev Desert again next year? Of course!

http://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/vie/desert.html

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